Glittertind in English

imageI made a quick translation of the Glittertind pattern! The original pattern is a free ravelry pattern by Erika Guselius (Dödergök) and there are no amendments in this translation, and the copyright still remains with the original author. This is the best pattern I have ever knitted. I am so extremely pleased with the outcome, so I hope more people will be able to knit this AWESOME baby sweater!

Notions

  • Yarn: Sport weight yarn in three colours.
  • Needles: 3mm and 2.5 mm (or needles to obtain gauge).
  • Tension: 24sts * 32 rows = 10*10 cm (measured over stocking stitch in one colour)
  • 6-8 buttons, ribbon for button edge, scrap yarn

Skills required: chart reading, stranded knitting, steeking, short rows.

Abbreviations

  • MC = Main colour
  • CC = contrast colour
  • CO = cast on
  • STS = stitches
  • K = knit
  • P = purl
  • SS = stocking stitch
  • Kfb = knit front and back of stitch (increases 1 st)
  • K2tog = knit 2 together (decreases 1 st)
  • TW = twisted increase (increases 1 st) [1]
  • PM = place marker
  • PU = pick up stitch
  • YO = yarn over (increases 1 st)

Size chart & yarn requirements

1-3 months 6-9 months 12-18 months 2-3 years
Chest (circumference) 44 50 56 67
Sleeve (wrist to armpit) 15 17 19 24
Full length from shoulder 28 31 34 42
Lenght to armpit 16 18 21 25
Yarn requirements 100g MC

50g CC1

50g CC2

100g MC

50g CC1

50g CC2

100g MC

100g CC1

50g CC2

150g MC

100g CC1

50g CC2

It is easy to change the length of the body and sleeves, but the amount of yarn required will likely change.

The two smallest sizes are knitted with 6 extra stitches at the front centre. When the body is completed the cardigan is cut open and the button band is picked up and knitted on both sides. The two larger sizes do not have any additional stitches included and are knitted in the round and worn as sweaters without buttons. It is of course possible to make them into cardigans using the instructions for the smaller sizes.

Sleeve

  • CO 32, 36, 36, 40 sts on 2.5mm needles in CC1 and *k2, p2* ribbing in the round until the sleeve measures 3,( 3), 4, (4) cm.
  • Switch to 3mm needles and knit 2 rows SS. Work Kfb evenly across the next row to achieve a total of 36, 42, 42, 48 sts. There are 3 knit rows before the chart is started.
  • Knit chart 1. When chart 1 is finished the total number of stitches are 48,(54), 54, (60).
  • Continue to knit SS in MC. Increase 2 sts every 4, (-) 5 (6) row until you have 52, 54, 60, 64 stitches (i.e. no increases in size 6-9 months). Work the increases by: k1, TW1, k until 1 st remains, TW1, k1. The increases will gather in the centre of the underside of the sleeve.
  • Continue knitting SS until the sleeve measures 15, (17), 19, (24) cm.
  • Place the middle 6 sts (3 from each side of the start of the row) on scrap yarn and let the rest of the sleeve rest. It’s good to have many needles in the same size, or needles with interchangeable tips so that the cable can be used to leave the stitches.
  • Knit a second sleeve in exactly the same manner.

Body

  • CO 94+6, (102+6), 116, (140) sts on 2.5 mm needles in MC and work *k2, p2* ribbing for 3.5, (4), 4, (5) cm. Don’t forget to mark the beginning of the row with a marker.
    • It’s also good to mark the front and back by placing a marker after 53, (57), 58, 70 sts (the front should have 6 more sts in the two smaller sizes).
    • Also note that you want 2 knit stitches on each side of the 6 centre stitches when you knit the ribbing. For example if you knit the smallest size you work the ribbing like this: p1, *k2, p2* until you have knitted 23 sts, PM, k6, PM, *k2,p2* until you’ve knit 24 sts, PM, *k2, p2* until 1 st remains, p1, PM.
    •  
  • Change to 3mm needles and knit 1 row SS, at the same time increase by evenly until you have 100+6, (108+6), 120, (148) sts. Work increases with Kfb.
  • When the piece measures 6 cm increase 4, (4), 4, (4) sts by TW 1 st on each side of the side markers inside the border stitch. Repeat the increase every 6th row 0, (1), 2, (2) further times, you’ve now got 104+6, (116+6), 132, (160) sts.
  • Continue to knit in SS in MC until the body measures 16, (18), 21,(25) cm.
  • On the last row place 6 sts on scrap yarn from each side (just like the sleeves) – a total of 12 sts on scrap yarn for the body.
    • A tip for easily placing side stitches on scrap yarn: on the last row knit the first side, place 6 sts on scrap yarn, knit the back side, and place 6 sts on scrap yarn. This way you don’t have to break the yarn.
  • Joining the body and sleeves: the joining row is knit in MC. Start by knitting the sts from one sleeve with the circular needle used for the body. On the same needle, knit the front of the body, knit the second sleeve, knit the back. In total 184+6, (200+6), 228, (264) sts. The row will now start on one shoulder.
  • Knit 4 rows stocking stitch, then decrease 16, (20), 24, (24) sts evenly by k2tog. You now have 168+6, (180+6), 204, (240) sts.
  • Knit chart 2. The arrows indicate where short rows are worked over the stated number of stitches across the back.

The two smaller sizes

    • After row 33 in chart 2, change to MC and knit 2 (4) rows. 84+6 (90+6) sts.
    • Change to 2.5 mm needles and decrease evenly until you’ve got 54+6, (58+6)sts.
    • Knit *k2, p2* ribbing, remember that you should have 2 knit sts on each side of the 6 centre sts. Knit 2 cm ribbing, cast off loosely in pattern.
    • Attach all threads. Mark the 6 centre stitches by hand stitching long stitches on each side. Machine stitch a zig-zag seam 2 sts from the hand stitched seam. You can repeat this seam once more to make sure it’s really secure.
    • Cut through the fabric at the centre of the 6 sts, and fold along the marked line. Pick up stitches from the front for the button band with 2.5mm needles.
      • Pick up sts like this: *PU 3, skip 1*. Make sure you can divide your number of stitches by 4+2 so that you can knit *k2, p2* ribbing and end with k2.
    • Knit 1 button band 2.5 cm ribbing. For the other side, knit 3 rows ribbing, mark the placement of the button holes. The button holes are knit in the purl stitches, the first one in the first purled ’valley’ and the last in the final purled ’valley’. The remaining button holes are placed evenly between the first and last. Aim for 6-8 button holes.
    • Knit the button holes over the next 3 rows of ribbing:
        • 1st row: knit in ribbing until the 1st button hole, YO twice. P2tog, repeat for each button hole.
        • 2nd row: k1 in the double YOs.
    • 3rd row: knit in ribbing until the purled st that belongs to the button hole. P1 in the button hole to make it bigger, repeat at each button hole.
  • Knit 3 further rows of ribbing (or as many rows as required to make the button band as wide as the first one). Cast off from the front.

 The two bigger sizes

  • When you’ve finished chart 2 you’ve got 68 (80) sts. K1 row with MC, and decrease evenly over the next row to get 64 (68) sts. Decrease by k2tog.
  • Change to 2.5mm needles and knit ribbing *k2, p2* for 2.5 cm. Cast off loosely in pattern.

All sizes:

  • Close the holes under the arms by placing the sts on DPNs, and use Kitchener stitch to graft together invisibly.
  • Attach all loose threads and block carefully.
  • If you want to, attach a woven band on the inside of the cut edges to hide the zig-zag.

The charts are not translated, but fairly self explanatory. The arrows indicate where the short rows are supposed to be knit.

[1] http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-work-a-make-1-increase.html

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